[Written during the first week of April, just a few days before reaching Dandi, Gujarat]
I decided not to walk today with the Yatris because I wanted to get to the city of Navsari as early as possible. This place has much historical relevance as far as Parsi history goes. The Parsis first landed in the city of Sanjan, just south of Navsari, in the 6th century. Navsari became the first place that they resided in. Today 3-4,000 Parsis live here, an old library with old manuscripts and literature related to Zoroastrianism/Parsis, a Parsi hospital, a college, and one of the holiest fire temples. I got a ride with Sudhir and Rupalee of the Mahatma Gandhi Foundation and we entered the small city around 9:00 a.m. I felt quite excited for a day of exploring and learning more about my Parsi heritage and seeing old relics.
(If you would like to check out an excellent photographic essay on Parsis, click HERE. Her “brief history on Parsis” is really consise & well-done)
After grubbing a samosa and sipping a couple cups of chai, I found the nearest rickshaw and asked him to take me to Atash Behram in Taeota Bazaar. As we veered around the corner I saw the Igari (Fire temple), its impressive stature, and I realized that I was more nervous than excited. Parsis are much lighter skinned than typical Indians because of their Iranian roots. My father and his side of the family are distinctly Parsi, whereas I am not. I knew that they would not allow me inside this sacred fire temple if I was not Parsi and that I would have to prove myself, which might be difficult.
I walked up to the gate where 4 Parsi men were sitting with their topees (similar to a Yamaka) on their heads. I told them that I was a Parsi-Indian-American participating in the Salt March, and wanted to go inside the temple. There were two guys (let’s call them bitter old man A and B).
A: Can you identify youself as a Parsi?
Me: Well, I don’t wear the Sudreh (sacred shirt made of pure white muslin) and Kusti (72 woven threads of lamb’s wool). But my name is Revaz Farok Ar-de-sher ( I then presented my California ID and recited 15 words of the prayer. Ardesher is a very Parsi name so that’s why I stressed my name)
A: You are not Parsi. Anyone can study the prayers. And you could have changed your name to the one on this ID card. People will do anything to satisfy their curiousity of Parsis.
Me: Anyone can buy a Sudreh and Kusti. If I wear a sudreh and kusti tomorrow am I more Parsi then?
A: I’m sorry, you are not Parsi. People are born Parsi, Christian, or Jewish. You cannot change who you are. A Parsi parent would insist that their children wear the Sudreh and kusti. Why do you not wear it?
Me: I had my Navjote when I was 7, but wearing a sudreh and kusti is not socially or culturally acceptable in the U.S. If a Parsi woman were wearing a dress or skirt, how can she have a thread hanging down her leg? Even in Bombay, most kids I’ve met don’t wear sudreh & kusti.
A: No, women can still wear a saree with sudreh & kusti and I’m sure more than 90% of the Parsi youth in Bombay are wearing it.
B: Do you know the prayer?
Me: (I recited the prayer again)
B: Nope, still don’t believe you.
Me: Then why the hell did you just ask me??
A: There are a couple questions we ask people before entering and you are not a Parsi.
I felt so sad and dejected that my head hung lower than it has in a long time. My feet dragged as I walked along the perimeter of the temple and I felt the whispers of people nearby as they asked the men what I wanted. I hopped back in the rickshaw and I felt my sadness turn to anger. The classic end to a negative episode for me: I think of things I should have said and it fuels the blood in veins to boil for a while. I wanted to tell the richshaw driver to turn around. I wanted to write a letter to the Zorastrian Association or someone.
This would be like a Jew not being allowed into a synagogue because they are not wearing a yamaka (maybe they aren’t allowed to, I don’t know. But they shouldn’t be told that they are not Jewish because of it) or a Christian not allowed entry into a church because they don’t have a cross around their neck.
I might not be a pious Parsi, but I should still be considered as one and allowed to enter its holy sites right? I was pretty heated and upset about this incident for many days. I talked about it with people and there were mixed reactions. In some ways, I now feel that maybe they were doing the right thing. Wearing the Sudreh & Kusti is the most important ritual in the Zoroastrian religion and if I don’t partake in that daily routine, then I shoudn’t be considered as one. Right? I’m still trying sift through my current feelings of Paris culture. With only 100,000 worldwide, they are dying as quickly as any other endangered species. Marrying outside is occurring more & more. Are they an elitist social group that considers themselves valuable? They are a rare item and many, especially in the States, have done quite well economically. But many of the ones I have observed in the SF Bay Area are overly snobbish, status driven, Lexus driving pricks, to generalize rudely. Most of my cousins and Parsi friends I’ve met in India are daily prayer sayers and feel it is important for them to marry a Parsi. It’s sad that the community is dying, and they’re working to keep it a live a little longer.
“Even if I didn’t marry a Parsi, I would still want my children to be Zoroastrian. And that would probably cause problems with a woman of different religious orientation. I will rebel against everything else, as far as my parents go. But I feel it is my greatest duty for them, that I marry a Parsi.” - my cousin Rayomond from Poona (Pune)
As I roll through India, trying to grasp hold of my “Indianess”, its been synonamous with my “Parsi-ness”. I do feel it is a beautiful religion. When people used to ask my father about the religion, he would just tell them, “Good thoughts, good words, good deeds.” I think that is a pretty good, simple philosophy to be carried through one’s life.
Even before my experience in Navsari, I have caught myself saying the Parsi prayer in my head from time to time. It was really strange when I first realized I was doing this, but I think I’ve been doing it for years without knowing it. Being in difficult spots during my travels has caused me to seek outside help and being aware of this has caused me to think…..Wow, am i really a believer?? I would have said I was agnostic as the last few years have gone by (after hearing a guy recently say, “Well, I’m agnostic ya know?” with that SoCal surfer accent, I don’t think I’m ever going to say that again), but this isn’t true.
I have been confronted with my Parsi dilemma. I’ve felt like I want to be accepted more by these people, and I only can if I wear the correct attire, speak Gujarati, and marry inside the clan. It’s quite analagous to wanting to be accepted by Indians - knowing hindi, living in here, and marrying an Indian.
Just some thoughts to munch on later I guess. I think I just have to make sure that I do things in life for the right reasons - for myself and not for the acceptance of another group.
I think your last sentence is key: “I think I just have to make sure that I do things in life for the right reasons - for myself and not for the acceptance of another group.”
Rivers, just remeber…Identity does not have to be a unilateral construction. I think when we try to be “extreme” not only do we forget where we have been…we will also fail to grasp who we will be/ or who who we are striving to be.
As for myself–bring back some good literature and info…it’s about time I got in touch with my Parsi side (Minus the “overly snobbish, status driven, Lexus driving” quailities of course). Much love, Rochelle
Are you sure they didn’t believe you cuz they talked to the Eastern European hippie lady from Sri Sri’s breathing sales display? I think you told her you were about 1,043 ethnicities.
JK, this was a beautiful post. And I agree with Rochelle: you shouldn’t feel obliged to change who you are to fit inside the notions of how someone else thinks you should be.
Either way, you know you’ve got my acceptance. Peace out.
The Parsee religion in India is based on hypocricy, narrowmindedness and archaic rules.It is not written in the scriptures that a non parsee or one who does not wear Sadrah/Kusti cannot enter the Fire Temple. Anyone can enter the fire temples of America,Iran or Germany or australia etcetera.I had the foresight not to indoctrinate my children into any religion.Yes as a dutiful parent I did their Navjote— nothing more.What my son saw in Navsari was the UGLY FACE of narrow minded and uneducated behaviour befitting any orthodox religion. Our religion is how we live each day, how we treat every human being and living creature with love, respect and dignity. This is our religion,everything else is PURE FLUFF.
True pops. Good thoughts, good words, good deeds…the rest is just show. But I think the Parsees have a somewhat legitimate reason to be extreme over other religions. With a dying world population of 70-100k and people still marrying outside the community, it is one of few ways to keep the breed afloat. But changing rigid rules is another idea. “Rigidity is death.”
Yeah Roch I definitely believe that identity is a complex, multi-faceted construct. I would like to think that I am someone that embodies a diverse, versatile array of identities, tastes, styles, etc - and these all make me ME!! haha.
It reminds me of that great flick, “L’auberge Espagnole”, when they are talking about identity at that Barelona cafe:
Isabelle: It’s contradictory to defend Catalan at the very moment we’re creating a European Union.
Catalan Student: I don’t agree. First of all, because we’re dicussing identity. There’s not one single valid identity, but many varied and perfectly compatible identities. It’s a question of respect. For example, I have at least two identities: my Gambian identity, which I carry internally, and my Catalan identity. It’s not contradictory to combine identities.
Revaz means custom. Parsi identity is a culture not a religion. The religion is Zoroastrianism.
Your forefathers were called “parsi” by the natives of (Gujrat)India. This identity, along with some contitions, was imposed on the refugees from Iran. Over 1300 years ago, the desperate group of Zoroastrians, in order to seek refuge, promised to adopt all the imposed stipulations
That promise holds good to this day.
Parsis are famous not just because of their good thoughts good words and good deeds, but more because they can be trusted to keep their word.
If you are honest(and do follow the 3 principles), believe me, you are more a Parsi that the Dastoor in Navsari.
Adil B.
HI
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WWW.BANDRA-MUMBAI.COM
Hello,
I’m a Parsi, and I was fascinated by your article. I think we should allow converts from the mixed marriages, if we are to preserve the numbers of our religion in India. Also, I was reading an article and discussion on Freddie Mercury on wikipedia and it kept on reiterating that he was Persian/Iranian as opposed to Indian because his ancestry was Parsi. Would you call us Indians or Persians? I think Freddie called himself Persian to downplay his Indian Parsi heritage but I may be wrong though.
I’d call us Indians. But I might also call us Persians.
Cyrus again,
Thanks for your answer. I dont deny that genealogically we are Persian. I just question the fact that we are identical to Persian/Iranian people as they are today rather than Indian people. I dont think we are in anyway like modern Iranian people. Wouldnt you agree? I also heard somewhere that we are extremely clannish. I call this a bunch of bunkum, but I havent too many Parsis, where I’m living. What is your view on this judgement?
Parsis are Indian. Zoroastrians could be Iranian or Indian in origin… though there nationality could be anything. I’d say many ethnicities in the U.S. are clannish and I too have strayed clear of “recruitment”. I don’t want to be someone’s friend just because they are Indian.
There is a decent sized Parsi community here in the Bay Area, with most in the south bay… my family used to attend the functions when I was younger, but the crowd became easy to generalize - orthodox, conservative, mercedez driving/status driven, and snobby. So we took the first highway out.
I’d say Parisis are quite clannish. In India moreso…all of my cousins will marry a Parsi… but in the States, my cousins have chosen otherwise by choice.
Hellow friends,
I read all reply.Parsis r also facing question of indentity like any other religion and its people.But guys i want to point out that the real problem is our mind set.Why one could’nt have multyple indentity?Its nothing wrong in that.We r assuming that we should be either iranians or indians.Nothing wrong if we describe ourselfe as both.
Remaining thing orthodox parsi people.Guys i want to say you that every community have its own problems.People take time to change as a community.Its a difficult thing which should happen naturally.If we force thoughts on people under the name of libretion ,it may yield opposite result.Instead of that let people think what is wrong and what is not,let them take time and decide.
In this era of globalisation it is very difficult to pass your heritage to next generation.Every commnuty is feared of loosing their traditions.Please note almost all communities have sacrifies their blood for preservation of their faith ,culture.
I am writing this on web but i am not parsi as well as zoro.I am one indian.I know so many parsi friends who are realy good people.They are not conservative.I have seen so many parsi with mix marriages
I have said it again and again. Either we change or become extinct. Yes, the Parsis in India are very closed-minded, bordering on the rascist. But those in North America are not like that (most of us anyway).
So I say we can build our own fire temples. Let the closed-minded ones alone, as it is they will die out on their own.
Hey,
Over the years have you changed your opinion?
Has time tempered your conceptions of
right and wrong/ good and bad.
Interestingly basic tenants of good and evil remain the same over the years.
That is why the parsis survive today.
You inherit an ancient and mature culture and religion. Enjoy.